water is at the same time the most precious and most unobtrusive ingredient in italian cooking, and its value is immense precisely because it is self-effacing. what water gives you is time, time to cook a meat sauce long enough without it drying out or becoming too concentrated, time for a roast to come around when using that superb italian technique of roasting meat over a burner with the cover slightly askew, time for a stew or a fricassee or a glazed vegetable to develop flavor and tenderness. water allows you to glean the tasty particles on the bottom of a pan without relying too much on such solvents as wine or stock that might tip the balance of flavor. when it has done its job and has been boiled away, water disappears without a trace, allowing your meats, your vegetables, your sauces to taste forthrightly of themselves.
- marcella hazan, "fundamentals: water," essentials of classic italian cooking november 5, 1992
posted December 12, 2004 in print.